Smith and Wesson J-Frame...
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Smith and Wesson J-Frame...
Hannibal Lecter Thu Apr 08, 2010 11:43 am
My Dear Friends,
I managed a trigger job on my Smith Model 36 last week-end, and I will tell you that it was a great deal easier than I anticipated. UNLOAD GUN, remove the grips and the side plate.
Gently cycle the action, taking a hard look at all contact/friction points. All points where metal contacts other metal will need to be polished by hand. Concentration on the sear/hammer engagement point is fine, but be sure to also polish the sides of the hammer and trigger, as well as the pins they pivot on. You would be amazed at the difference this little detail will make.
I don't really suggest using a Dremel tool or the like - a little Flitz polishing compound on a cloth will suffice for most, and if there are surfaces you prefer to keep perfectly flat (sides of the hammer, etc.) I have found that a bit of polishing compound on a piece of thin cardboard (notebook cover, etc.) will do wonders on surfaces very quickly if they're rubbed over it.
(DO NOT USE POLISHING STONES OF ANY KIND UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU'RE DOING, in which case you don't need to be reading this information anyway. Polishing compound won't remove enough metal to make a safe gun unsafe, but a polishing stone can do this, and in just a few short strokes with the stone you can take a great defensive tool and turn it into a dangerous, defective, malfunctioning weapon.)
Once all points were polished I wiped them down with a silicone cloth to prevent corrosion, lubricated them, reassembled the handgun and safety-tested it (make certain that a push on the back of the cocked hammer will not cause it to disengage from the sear and fire, etc.). Maybe a half-hour all told for the entire process.
The trigger pull was not appreciably lightened, but that wasn't the point - I don't mind a stiff trigger so long as it is smooth and doesn't interrupt my sight picture or alignment.
For anyone wanting a lighter trigger pull in addition to a smoother one, please don't be a dimbulb and think that shortening the hammer spring will improve the trigger pull. Wolff Springs sell a set of reduced power springs for Smith J-Frame Revolvers that will accomplish what you want while still maintaining reliability and safety. The last set I purchased was $10 - 12, so it isn't like it's a major investment.
I can't stress enough learning how your handguns function internally. Even if you never decide to improve them, just having the skills to maintain them is a major benefit.
--------
Hannibal
I managed a trigger job on my Smith Model 36 last week-end, and I will tell you that it was a great deal easier than I anticipated. UNLOAD GUN, remove the grips and the side plate.
Gently cycle the action, taking a hard look at all contact/friction points. All points where metal contacts other metal will need to be polished by hand. Concentration on the sear/hammer engagement point is fine, but be sure to also polish the sides of the hammer and trigger, as well as the pins they pivot on. You would be amazed at the difference this little detail will make.
I don't really suggest using a Dremel tool or the like - a little Flitz polishing compound on a cloth will suffice for most, and if there are surfaces you prefer to keep perfectly flat (sides of the hammer, etc.) I have found that a bit of polishing compound on a piece of thin cardboard (notebook cover, etc.) will do wonders on surfaces very quickly if they're rubbed over it.
(DO NOT USE POLISHING STONES OF ANY KIND UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU'RE DOING, in which case you don't need to be reading this information anyway. Polishing compound won't remove enough metal to make a safe gun unsafe, but a polishing stone can do this, and in just a few short strokes with the stone you can take a great defensive tool and turn it into a dangerous, defective, malfunctioning weapon.)
Once all points were polished I wiped them down with a silicone cloth to prevent corrosion, lubricated them, reassembled the handgun and safety-tested it (make certain that a push on the back of the cocked hammer will not cause it to disengage from the sear and fire, etc.). Maybe a half-hour all told for the entire process.
The trigger pull was not appreciably lightened, but that wasn't the point - I don't mind a stiff trigger so long as it is smooth and doesn't interrupt my sight picture or alignment.
For anyone wanting a lighter trigger pull in addition to a smoother one, please don't be a dimbulb and think that shortening the hammer spring will improve the trigger pull. Wolff Springs sell a set of reduced power springs for Smith J-Frame Revolvers that will accomplish what you want while still maintaining reliability and safety. The last set I purchased was $10 - 12, so it isn't like it's a major investment.
I can't stress enough learning how your handguns function internally. Even if you never decide to improve them, just having the skills to maintain them is a major benefit.
--------
Hannibal
Hannibal Lecter- Posts : 16
Join date : 2010-04-07
Age : 54
Location : West Virginia
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